It’s Vintage Darling

“There cannot be the slightest doubt but that it will prove an important medium in the prevention and detection of crime.” – Frederick Smyth, 1886, taken from the introduction of ‘Professional Criminals of America’ by Thomas Byrnes. Sometimes a picture is just too good not to share. Chapeau! have to thank Mark Ratcliff for alerting us to this excellent find. During the 1840s, when photography was still very new, police departments began displaying daguerreotype portraits of potentially dangerous suspects and convicts. In 1901, in an article for ‘Camera Craft’, Theodore Kytke wrote “At times it took many hands to hold the criminal quietly before the camera and many silver-coated copper-plates were spoiled due to the long exposure necessary for the production of a daguerreotype,” Kytke also claimed that San Francisco created the first so-called ‘rogues’ gallery’ but in reality mugshots were already in use in other cities.  As printing technology improved, images and their corresponding notes were often compiled into hardbound albums making these archives easier to search quickly. Mark Michaelson, a New York-based art director and graphic designer, has been collecting vintage mugshots since the 1990s referring to them affectionately as “least wanted”. Michaelson was drawn to the visual appeal of mugshots, the text and image, some of which he has repurposed for his own street-art posters. In 2006 Michaelson published a selection of his mugshot archive as a book ‘Least Wanted: A Century of American Mugshots‘, which combined these images with essays about the history and power of mugshot photography. As Michaelson noted when he came across his first mugshot, ‘it was love at first sight’.

#chapeaulondon #chapeaublog #dedicatedtothethingswelove #wordsandpictures #amazing #london #lifestyle #mugshots #photography #image #text #markmichaelson #vintagemugshots #leastwanted #book #leastwantedacenturyofamericanmugshots

Terrains Of The Body

“Men act and women appear. Men look at women. Women watch themselves being looked at.” – the late John Berger ‘Ways of Seeing’. ‘Terrains of the Body’ is a small but mighty exhibition, presenting work by female contemporary artists who capture women on camera in domestic spaces and naturalistic landscapes. Drawn from the ‘National Museum of Women in the Arts’ (Washington) this collection showcases photography and video work by seventeen contemporary artists from around the world. By turning their camera’s on women (sometimes themselves) these artists embrace the female body as a vital medium for storytelling, expressing identity and reflecting individuality. Long live the sisterhood in this all-female Whitechapel exhibition showcasing photography and video work from Marina Abramović, Rineke Dijkstra, Anna Gaskell, Nan Goldin, Charlotte Gyllenhammar and many more. ‘Terrains of the Body’ runs until April 16, 2017 at the Whitechapel Gallery.

#chapeaulondon #chapeaublog #dedicatedtothethingswelove #wordsandpictures #amazing #london #lifestyle #terrainsofthebody #whitechapelgallery #photography #video #art #women #nationalmuseumofwomeninthearts

Mayne’s Work

“The reason for photographing poor streets is that I love them. Empty, the streets have their own kind of beauty, a kind of decaying splendor and always great atmosphere.” – Roger Mayne, Photographer. In an exhibition of a lifetime of work the ‘Photographer’s Gallery’ is showing photographer Roger Mayne’s projects from Sheffield and Nottingham. Mayne, who found influence from Cartier Bresson, Paul Strand, W. Eugene Smith and mentor Hugo van Wadenoyen, worked as a photojournalist from 1954 for publications including the ‘Observer’, ‘Sunday Times’ and ‘Vogue’. Mayne’s photographs take a close look at life in an urban landscape.  Mayne was one of London’s first street photographers, snapping the youths of the 1950s at play in the city, smoking against lampposts, hanging out on doorsteps or enjoying a game of cricket on an empty road. The photojournalist, born in 1929, is best known for his series on North Kensington, now part of the V&A collection entitled ‘Portraiture on Southam Street’. Taken between 1956 and 1961, the photographs capture the “first generation” of British teenagers. Southam Street would later be demolished as part of a slum clearance programme. Mayne’s work offers a snapshot of post-war Britain at a time when rationing and hardship were still prevalent. Later still Mayne’s images of Park Hill estate (taken while on commissioned work in Sheffield) between 1961 and 1965 are another human insight into social interactions and children at play. His subject develops as he begins to capture the forms of the estate buildings. In Nottingham in 1964 he would use the urban surroundings of the Raleigh Cycles factory to create dynamic portraits of the workers. Mayne was interested in all aspects of the photographic process. The exhibition will show his experimentations with large prints, mounting methods and an installation ‘The British at Leisure’ – 310 images projected on five screens to a jazz score by Johnny Scott – that played part in the shift British photography from commercial practice to an art form. ‘Roger Mayne’ will show at the Photographer’s Gallery from 3 March 3 – June 11, 2017. The exhibition is co-curated by Anna Douglas and Karen McQuaid and in collaboration with Katkin Tremayne, Roger Mayne’s daughter.

#chapeaulondon #chapeaublog #dedicatedtothethingswelove #wordsandpictures #amazing #london #lifestyle #rogermanye #photographer #exhibition #photographersgallery #southamstreet #sheffield #nottingham

Hey Goldilocks

Fit for a modern day Goldilocks this is the ultimate in luxurious grooming. From the minds of Balmain to the roots of your hair, Balmain Paris Hair Couture’s pocket comb is sleek and modern, a classic take on a fairly mundane hair maintenance essential. Not only is the comb gold plated (screams) it detangles your locks without pulling or breakage. It’s clutch bag size too fellas!

#chapeaulondon #chapeaublog #dedicatedtothethingswelove #wordsandpictures #amazing #london #lifestyle #balmain #netaporter #comb #gold #love

balmain gold comb

Song To Song

Terrence Malick used to release movies by the decade. Since 2011’s ‘Tree of Life’, however, he’s been downright prolific with 2012’s ‘To the Wonder’, last year’s ‘Knight of Cups’ and now this year’s ‘Song to Song‘. ‘Song to Song’ is an American drama written and directed by Terrence Malick, starring an ensemble cast including Rooney Mara, Ryan Gosling, Michael Fassbender and Natalie Portman. In this modern love story set against the Austin, Texas music scene, two entangled couples — struggling songwriters Faye (Mara) and BV (Gosling) and music mogul Cook (Fassbender) and the waitress whom he ensnares (Portman) — chase success through a rock ‘n’ roll landscape of seduction and betrayal. “We thought we could just live from song to song, kiss to kiss,” Rooney Mara murmurs in the voiceover for ‘Song to Song’, whilst Del Shannon’s “Runaway” blasts over images of Mara dancing with Ryan Gosling who seems to be a musician–among other things, he plays the piano. Sound familiar? The movie looks like a bleak, Malick filled version of ‘La La Land’ for fans of late-aughts indie rock. The cast for this thing is pretty wild as it usually is for a Malick film, Christian Bale, Cate Blanchett, Haley Bennett, Val Kilmer, Benicio Del Toro, Clifton Collins Jr., Angela Bettis, Berenice Marlohe and Holly Hunter co-star, Iggy Pop and Flea show up somewhere along the way, which fits with prior rumors that Malick’s film would feature a lot of musician cameos. Patti Smith, Lykke Li, the Black Lips, Florence and the Machine and John Lydon have all been mentioned in connection to the project. ‘Song to Song’ opens in NYC and Los Angeles on March 17.

#chapeaulondon #chapeaublog #dedicatedtothethingswelove #wordsandpictures #amazing #london #lifestyle #songtosong #terrencemalick #austin #texas #music #film #rooneymara #ryangosling #natalieportman #michaelfassbender #rocknroll

Self, Self, Self

With the announcement of a new exhibition, ‘From Selfie to Self-Expression’ and its coinciding public project, the #SaatchiSelfie competition, comes the possibility that your selfie could be displayed in London’s Saatchi Gallery come March. Let’s try and keep it clean people. Teaming up with smartphone brand Huawei the gallery will allegedly be the first in the world to dedicate an exhibition exploring the history of the selfie. Although all of the artists and photographers involved are yet to be announced the gallery has confirmed that works by Vincent Van Gogh, Cindy Sherman and Juno Calypso will be present. Also included are works defined as “icons of the digital era”, that is, photographs that have gained mass cultural significance and some which have gone viral. For example, George Harrison in front of the Taj Mahal or Barrack Obama’s now-infamous selfie with then-Danish PM, Helle Thorning-Schmidt, alongside then-UK PM, David Cameron at Nelson Mandela’s funeral as an unimpressed Michelle sat beside them, out of shot. ‘From Selfie to Self-Expression’ will be split into four sections; ‘The history of the Selfie from the Old Masters to present day’, ‘Iconic selfies from beautiful and sublime to the mad bad and dangerous’, ‘UGC and interactive artworks and #SaatchiSelfie competition’ and ‘Self-Expression’. The latter will feature ten young British photographers commissioned by Huawei to create new works for the show. You can log on to Saatchi Gallery’s website to see an ever-growing bank of selfie submissions being entered into the competition. The selfies will be judged by a group of artists before one is chosen to be displayed in the gallery itself. ‘From Selfie to Self-Expression’ opens March 31 2017 at London’s Saatchi Gallery.

#chapeaulondon #chapeaublog #dedicatedtothethingswelove #wordsandpictures #amazing #london #lifestyle #SaatchiSelfie #saatchigallery #exhibition #selfie #fromselfietoselfexpression #photography #art #artworks

David Uzochukwu

“There’s always the question of how to turn a feeling I have into something visual. When I find this frequency in myself that I really want to create to, the rest just falls into place. The campaign’s slogan, “Do you believe in more?”, became my mantra for a few weeks. It was all about this sensation of going beyond the ordinary. – David Uzochukwu, Photographer. Despite his teenage years, eighteen year old photographer David Uzochukwu’s portfolio boasts editorial shoots, projects with Adobe Photoshop and now a mammoth Nike campaign “Do you believe in more?” featuring FKA twigs. Uzochukwu is self-taught, self-portraiture is what Uzochukwu started out with and he has a catalogue of perfectly executed shots with him at the centre of it to prove it … then he worked up the guts to ask others to stand in front of the lens for him. Although seemingly worlds apart comparisons can be drawn between Uzochukwu and FKA twigs without dwelling on arbitrary characteristics like global fame. Uzochukwu and twigs both have an admirable autonomy over their own work and a drive to be involved in many aspects of the creative process. The pair also share the experience of growing up in places with little diversity (racially and artistically). While twigs’ upbringing in a Spanish-Jamaican household in Gloucestershire framed her as an outsider from the outset of her career, Uzochukwu, an Austrian-born Luxembourger of Nigerian descent living in Brussels, makes sure his work carves a space for others who don’t feel like they belong. With this in mind last year Uzochukwu finished a self-portrait series about how racism shaped him. Uzochukwu covered himself in colour, it burned his eyes, he was always freezing and it was an absolute pain to clean up. In Uzochukwu’s own words “I was an emotional wreck shooting it – but wow, did I need to make these pictures.”

#chapeaulondon #chapeaublog #dedicatedtothethingswelove #wordsandpictures #amazing #london #lifestyle #daviduzochukwu #photographer #fkatwigs #nike #selfportraiture

fkatwigs by David U

It’s A Wonderful Town

Angelika Taschen knows New York. She’s been behind the velvet ropes, explored the secret unmarked restaurants and beloved neighborhood delis, scoured Soho, Nolita and Tribeca’s stylish stores and scoped out hotels uptown and downtown from the sleek and chic to hidden charms. Now she’s sharing all this and more in the second edition of TASCHEN’S New York. Taschen provides an all-access pass to parts of New York even most locals don’t know. Dictionary-style cutout tabs make it easy to flip through and a pocket-sized map of Manhattan lists all the shops, hotels, and restaurants in the book. With this guide in hand, New York is yours for the taking. Some gems featured; the ‘Maritime Hotel’ a former sailors’ dorm now Chelsea’s coolest hotel, Robert De Niro’s ‘Greenwich Hotel’ with its authentic Japanese spa, the cheap but chic ‘Pod Hotel’. There’s tips on how to get the best table at the ‘Waverly Inn’, Vanity Fair editor Graydon Carter’s exclusive salon for the glitterati, how to find Soho’s hidden basement bar ‘subMercer’ and the ‘Shake Shack’ for a terrific burger in the shade of Madison Square Park. Not forgetting ‘Rao’s’ the Spanish Harlem Italian joint run by the Sopranos’ actor who turned Madonna away, where to buy New York’s best cheesecake and ‘Greenwich Letterpress’ for hand-printed cards to send to envious friends. Remember folks, the Bronx is up and the Battery’s down.

#chapeaulondon #chapeaublog #dedicatedtothethingswelove #wordsandpictures #amazing #london #lifestyle #taschen #book #taschensnewyork #newyork #food #leisure #shopping #hotels

taschens new york 2nd edition

The X Directory

The X Directory book is a compilation of kink cards originally published by Pi34 Publishing in London in 1993. The X-Directory takes a subject considered debauched and guttural and makes high art from the kink cards depicted. For a price, these illustrated telephone booth stickers that flooded the seedier neighbourhoods of London from 1984 – 1994, promised demanding dominatrixes, alluring submissive’s, total male to female transformation and more. The book was republished by artist Matthew Bellosi but is now sadly out of pint. Kink cards aren’t usually used as a form of artistic inspiration but this collection of six hundred cards show how great composition and typography works well on a small ‘art’ scale. You can still find copies of The X Directory from these sellers.

#chapeaulondon #chapeaublog #dedicatedtothethingswelove #wordsandpictures #amazing #london #lifestyle #xdirectory #kinkcards #book #eighties #nineties

kink cards come obey

Teresa Lim

“I thought, I’m not going to come here again, so how should I capture this moment? I had my cross-stitch kit with me, so I started sewing instead.” – Teresa Lim, Textile Artist. The buzz is building around the quirky work of Singapore-based textile artist Teresa Lim. Lim graduated from ‘Lasalle College of the Arts’ with a First Class Ba Honours in Fashion Design and Textiles. Lim’s personal design philosophy? To fuse three of her interests together: illustration, embroidery and surface pattern design, Lim likes to blur the lines between being an illustrator and a textile designer. Lim’s main inspirations revolve around gender and womanhood … and it all began with wanderlust. Whilst travelling in Australia last year, Lim took out her phone to photograph a sunset over Perth’s Cottesloe Beach but it had run out of power. What to do? Lim immortalised her travels with needle and thread. Using embroidery hoops as her canvas, Lim cross-stitched stunningly detailed scenes on-site, an activity which forced the 24-year-old to truly immerse herself in her environment. And thus the textile artist created embroidered holiday snaps in a series called ‘Sew Wanderlust’. Lim has showcased her works at exhibitions in Singapore, Hong Kong, Bangkok and Japan. To date she has also worked with international clients such as H&M, Swarovski, Gucci, Coach and Olympus – ironic, amirite?! We love your work Teresa Lim.

#chapeaulondon #chapeaublog #dedicatedtothethingswelove #wordsandpictures #amazing #london #lifestyle #teresalim #textileartist #embroidery #sewwanderlust #gucci #art #illustration

teresa lim gucci